Meet The Brand New Lady Campers Moderators


Meet The Brand New Lady Campers Moderators

I’m Rachel, my friend Megan and I were out camping at the Grampians over Christmas and got thinking, there is nowhere for ladies to discuss camping activities, so we got thinking, the easiest way to create a ladies only community was a Facebook group. The group is a social, fun and informative ladies’ group, created to share information, events, special dates, ask for advice. This group is for ALL women. It is to share your camping photos, stories and experiences. Your favourite campsites. Your do’s and don’ts. Your camping lists. The highlights and lowlights of your adventures. Best fishing spots. Best or favourite kids’ activities. There are many, many places to see and things to do whilst out and about in the great outdoors – the sharing of information is endless!


Amy Slater:
Hi, I’m Amy. I am nearly 36 and live in Perth, Western Australia.
Born here, we moved over east (Canberra, Wagga, Seaforth/Frenchs Forest, Mosman) when I was 2.
I moved around a lot in my younger years as my dad was in the military. I’ve seen many camping grounds. Camping was life. Dad converted a standard Toyota Hiace into an amazing pop-top camper. Dad worked away a lot – so every school holidays (and weekends) we would be in the great outdoors somewhere, Hiace packed, ready to go. I’ve seen many many beautiful places. The Blue Mountains, along the Murray River, Kangaroo Valley, Sofala are a few of the many beautiful places we went. Moved to the good old Apple Isle, that is Tasmania. Camping there is stunning. As I grew older, camping became less and less as life took over. Now, I am trying to focus on the time that is now. Teach my children the love that is camping. I adore camping almost as much as I adore my children! I confess my favourite shops are BCF, Bunnings and Kmart, because, well who doesn’t love a good Kmart hack, a Bunnings snag or endless camping and fishing items?! I’m here to help all you wonderful ladies however possible. Once a week I will be featuring a campsite. I may pick one you’ve recommended, I may look for one, or use my own experiences, in the hopes to make your camping adventures perfect!


Shelly Pole:
I’m Shelly, 24, grew up camping every weekend at the beach with my family. We’d stay at Red Rock on the NSW North Coast religiously. My love of camping definitely came from my parents. As I got older, sport and school took over the weekends- still camping with the family for 2 weeks over Christmas. I lived in Sydney for 6 years and any trip away was a treat! Then moved down to Melbourne at the beginning of this year and work in sports competitions and events. I’m a fan of all things camping but weirdly have a phobia of fish. If I need a pick me up I’ll just search products on the BCF Website Accommodation of choice is the trusty swag. I’m here to support the group planning of weekends for Lady Campers!

Bek Keane:
Hi my name is Bek, and I am part of the admin team for Lady Campers! I’m 28 and I love going camping with my husband and our family and friends. My first trip ever was with my husband Darren, just three weeks after we started dating, where we went to Apollo Bay to ring in the New Year with a bunch of friends. Since then, we have gone from a little two man tent and no camping accessories – to a larger Boab (basically a room and a ½), a gazebo, bbq, tables & chairs, and actual designated pots & pans etc specifically for our trips. We love camping in the Otway’s – I love Stevenson’s Falls, the Grampians and anywhere along the coast of Victoria. Our next plan is to rid ourselves of our terrible Kmart airbed, (I think we may be on our fourth!) and purchase a self-inflating mattress, I have my eye on Darche. Since this group has grown in excess of 4000 members in a matter of days I am on board to help lead conversations regarding Great Camping Recipes & Meal Prep, Camping Storage Ideas and conversations relating specifically to us females such as pregnancy, periods and newborns whilst camping. I don’t have all the answers, but that is what 4000 members are for. Let’s use this group to its full potential and share ideas, ask questions, learn & teach.


Bec Bellsmith:
Hi all, my names Bec from Mt Eliza on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, I am 20, close to my family (especially my twinny ), and LOVE camping! I grew up camping at Wilsons prom, but now go 4×4 in my 1992 Troopy. Once a week I will be posting a paragraph on some of Australia’s best beach beaches, with info about campsites, what’s near, attractions extra. Stay salty legends!


We want this group to be friendly and polite so please refrain from any smart remarks or arguments. *If you see something you do not agree with, or something that offends you, you have a few choices – ignore it and scroll on or contact an admin to assist. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. You won’t always agree with what you see, but if you ignore it, you won’t have a problem. *If you absolutely CANNOT keep your opposing opinion to yourself, cannot scroll on and/or ignore said offending post, or you write a rude comment on someone’s post – admin reserves the right to issue warnings and/ or removal from the group.

*Bullying is not accepted and will not be tolerated.

If you feel bullied, see someone is being bullied or is bullying someone – don’t interact – contact an admin immediately

Learn to block people if you don’t like someone but make sure it’s not an admin or mod.

*If you see a sus account or a male account tell admin ASAP. If you see anyone breaking the rules also tell an admin, you will remain anonymous.

We hope this never has to happen and that everyone can be civil and polite.

***Feedback is not only welcomed, it’s encouraged! We want to make this page as cruisy and fun for you all as we possibly can. You’re welcome to ask the page any questions that you may have, share tips and tricks, show off your work etc. Admins are also available if you need us.**


They quit their jobs, joined a carnival and explored Australia

I’ve been enrolled in University for 7 years and have attended for 3 and a half years, the other 3 and a half years I’ve been travelling the world. 12 months ago now, my partner asked if I was willing to quit my job, put off University for another year (which wasn’t unusual for me) and take the time to see our own country. I’d seen 27 countries but had never been outside of Victoria or NSW. The answer to his question was a no-brainer. So that’s exactly what we did; we quit our jobs, said our farewells and began travelling Australia.

When we began our life on the road, we said we would take 5 months to see Australia, clearly having no idea how big this insane country is. Majority of people’s responses were, ‘If it doesn’t work, you can always come home’. In our minds, it was never not going to work. 5 months turned into 8, and 8 turned into 12. Life on the road has been the best thing we’ve ever done, alongside joining the carnival and meeting such incredible people from all across Australia and the world. We’ve lived in a space the size of 1.5m x 2m for the past 12 months and never once have we felt trapped, crammed or regretful of leaving our lives back home.
We’ve driven over 56,000kms in our babies Maxy and Larry (our Van and Land Cruiser) and it’s been such an adventure that neither one of us will ever forget. To so many people, living out of a car would be their worst nightmare, to me, their insane.
Before living on the road, I lived in a 5 bedroom home which consisted of 6 TVs and 4 people; you do the math? It didn’t take me long to question, why do we have all of these material objects in our life when all we need is a car, a road, a map and each other? (Oh and some money helps too!). My point is, you can have all the material possessions you want in your life and still be unhappy, or you can live your life on the road for a while, see these incredible places Australia has to offer and I’m certain that you’ll find a level of happiness you’ve never come across before.


56,000+kms in 310 days.
$26,000 spent;
$600 on caravan parks
$100 on National Parks
Can’t even think about the $$ spent on fuel.
3 flights.
2 cars.
2 car breakdowns (stupid choke!).
0 flat tyres (How? It’s beyond me?).
1 fight.
2 hospital visits.
0 accidents.
2 birds hit (R.I.P).
47 degrees was the hottest.
5 degrees was the coldest.
Cheapest meal: $1 for 12 dim sims.
Most costly meal: $200 seafood feast.
Most memorable comment: “Slow down you cockhead!”.
Top 10 spots in Australia:
– Whitsundays (QLD)
– Coolangatta (QLD)
– Uluru (NT)
– Kings Canyon (NT)
– Lucky Bay (Esperance, WA)
– Karijini National Park (WA)
– Wallaman falls (QLD)
– Broome (WA)
– Litchfield National Park (NT)
– Great Ocean Road (VIC)


I’ve always been a Gypsie at heart, and now I’ve found my Gypsie man. You learn so much about yourself and each other when you both only have one another. I always say, if we can survive living in a car for 12 months, we can survive anything. It’s now time to go home for Christmas and switch our life on the road from full time to part time; that’s until we get bored and find a new adventure anyway.

If you’re sitting on the fence trying to decide if life on the road is suited for you or even if you’re already on the road, head to to check out some entertaining stories of our life on the road or even if you need some visual motivation as to why you should hit the road or places to add to the bucket list, head to @girlmeetsboymeetsvan on Instagram.

8 Tips You Must Know When Camping With Dogs – Campersway

We have our dog Pippy Perry alongside us for the journey – is she a pain? Nope – Andrew is much more trouble than Pip will ever be! We did consider finding her a temporary home but we are gone indefinitely and the thought of not seeing her for a few years was just too upsetting to even think about!

Our advice before you set off on a big trip;

1. Have dog poo bags EVERYWHERE – in the car, your wallet, caravan, handbag. If your dog does do a No.2 PICK it up! If you don’t every other camper will judge you (myself included) & there is nothing worse than treading in it!

2. Bulk pigs ears – our Pip will take approximately 1hr to get through one.

3. A good sturdy water bowl – not the collapsible ones, they become unstable after a few weeks.

4. A few dogs leads & a proper walking harness – we have a lead in the car & on in the caravan.

5. Have a copy of your dog’s vaccinations in the glove box just in case it needs to go in a kennel in an emergency, in a pinch you can always get a copy faxed to you from your vet!

6. Make sure the mirco-chip is up to date!

7. Exercise your dog! Pip goes on at least one walk a day (over 3kms – usually 5kms) not only is it great for me & Pip but we meet so many lovely people locally and also those staying in the same place as you.

8. Where will you stay? Get WIKICAMPS – have the ‘dogs allowed’ filter on! Follow other travelling families/couples who have taken their dog on Facebook & Instagram, see where they are staying! I look up the #travelaustraliawithdogs

Get to know your dog;Are they ok on a lead? They spend a lot of time on the lead when you are on the road – do they carry on like a pork chop when they see other dogs? Knowing all their quirks make life so much easier!

  • Will they be happy to be left on their own for short periods? Can they handle being on their own if you all go to the shower block at the same time? Or if you all go to the camp kitchen for dinner together? Or are they barkers?
  • What are they like near water? Pippy will run & jump off a jetty quicker than you can say ‘croc’ – so she is on a lead before we open the car doors! Good to know in advance!
  • Do they come when they are called? Our Pip is very obedient but I have seen a few grey nomads chasing fluffy white dogs around caravan parks – it’s a bit cute to watch but probably not so cute if you’re the one doing the chasing!
  • Do they get car sick? Pip doesn’t but it seems to be surprisingly common for dogs!


The most common question we are asked……

What do you do with her when you go site seeing or to national parks?

We take Pippy almost everywhere & know her very well – she is happy to sit under a tree eating her pig’s ear while we swim in the pool etc. And remember when I said you meet lovely people when you walk your dog in the morning? Most people are happy to babysit your dog in exchange for you babysitting theirs. We have even had people travelling without their dog offering to mind Pippy because they miss their own pooch so much! Most Dog-friendly caravan parks are able to give you advice on local dog sitters, alternatively, there are dog kennels for overnight/longer stays.

We don’t regret bringing Pippy with us – not for one second!

Follow us on Instagram & Facebook @milsypezwardo #milsypezwardo. I’ll be posting regularly about how we find work, distance education, what essentials we brought along, caravan/troopy mods & camp sites!

Don’t be shy to leave a comment below or message us with any questions or with your hot tips of your own that might help us along the way J

How to maintain a healthy lifestyle whilst living on the road – One Day We Should

How to maintain a healthy lifestyle whilst living on the road – One Day We Should

Meals on the Road

Before we left I wondered- What we will eat while living life on the road? and Could we maintain our healthy lifestyle? Turns out -life on the road is extremely similar to ‘normal life’. It’s just a compact living space and we choose to cook our meats on a BBQ or campfire instead of an oven or cooktop.
A typical #meal for us on the road: Meat and Salad- Tonight we enjoyed some homemade chicken nuggets and salad!

Lunches for us consist of wraps -with all different types of fillings. We very rarely purchase bread as it goes mouldy extremely quickly in the warm climates. Wraps also have a longer use to date which is handy when going remote! Woolworths quite often sell them at half price (so if you ever go to get some wraps and find there’s none left… I’ve probably been and cleaned out the shop). #bulkbuyer.

Breakfast is exactly the same. The kids eat cereals and the occasional pancakes, eggs and bacon, yoghurt or porridge just to mix it up.

Snacks – ‘packet snack’ we buy in bulk when on special and store under our bed. (This is kids favourite place).
Fruits and vegetables we buy often- stocking up whenever we see a roadside stand/market or shop – we’ve never had a problem getting our hands on fresh fruit and vegetables.

Drinks- We have a separate drinking water tank in our van and fill this when we like the taste of the drinking water (some ‘potable water’ doesn’t taste as nice as others). We purchase water bottles and carry those in the car for days out and about so we never forget to drink or have to purchase water for $4 a bottle! We also buy powdered Powerade (I know it’s not that great for you but on those days when it’s super hot, we’ve spent the whole day outside sweating and we really haven’t drunk enough water, sculling a full 600ml of Powerade is better than a headache!)


As amazing as this lifestyle is there is no luxury of having a gym membership. With 3 kids to chase after there’s no time to attend one anyway. So how are we keeping fit on the road??
Believe it or not, we don’t carry any fancy gym equipment. ZERO. Here are 6 ways we are able to keep fit.

1. Playgrounds – Not only are playgrounds fantastic for the kids but they are extremely helpful to maintain our fitness. Kids entertain themselves while we do our workouts. Sometimes our workouts are more playing than ‘working out’ – our favourite is racing each other up those spiderweb towers. Kids think it’s hilarious but after a few rounds, we sure start to feel it!!!!

2. Hiking etc.- We never steer away from any hikes. Whether it be 4-5kms return through a gorge, Climbing a mountain peak, hiking to a stunning waterfall. We put the girls on our backs and go for it. Axl’s become quite a fantastic little hiker he tells us he’s training to become the future #ninjawarrior.

3. 20L drum workout- We don’t carry weights while we travel…. Or do we?!?!!! We always have a 20L water drum in the car and it makes a fantastic work out tool. Great for weighted squats, lounges, one arm rows, deadlifts etc.

4. Using the Kids- the kids love volunteering to be my weights they jump on my shoulders for a few rounds of squats, lunges and push-ups. By the time they’ve all had a turn I’m well and truly done!

5. Games – Our favourite game is the ‘Glow Stick Game’: we play this at night at our #freecamps. I throw some glow sticks into the darkness and give myself a set amount of burpees, push ups, squats, chin-ups etc. to get through before the kids can find them all and bring them back to the mat.
This helps wear the kids out before bed and gets me motivated to keep going as the kids don’t let me rest after just a handful of rounds…

6. Beach workouts- granite rocks, large driftwood and soft sand make for a great work out. Adding that extra level of difficulty to a normal workout.

🌈 LIKE AND FOLLOW ‘One day we Should’ 🌈

Don’t buy a drone until you watch this! – Campersway

We hope you enjoyed these drone fails, are you in the market for a new drone? Then you need to read this!

When picking out a starting drone, you’ll want to look mostly at durability, ease-of-use, and price. Durability is important because first-time users always have a few crashes, and you don’t want to trash your new toy when you’re first getting started. Ease-of-use is obvious – a high-end drone like the Phantom 4 might have a ton of great features, but to a beginner, those are just complications you don’t really want to deal with. And in case something does go wrong, you want to start with a fairly cheap drone that won’t set you back thousands of dollars.


How to fly a drone

  • Pick a nice day with no wind.
  • Go to a large open field with no obstacles such as buildings or power lines around.
  • Keep distractions to a minimum, and switch off your phone.
  • Make sure you don’t fly near people or properties.

Now it’s time to practice your skills. Taking off and climb a couple of meters, hovering, flying from point A to point B, and landing. Take it slowly.


Wind Speed

This is probably the first thing you need to find out before your flights if you are flying outdoors. I personally would not fly if the wind is stronger than 15mph. It’s flyable, but the quad will be a bit wobbly and the video footage will be a bit shaky.

Before I understand how important this is, I flew my 450 size tricopter in gusty wind (it must have been 25mph – 30mph) and it didn’t end too well. It was totally uncontrollable, eventually it was pushed away by the wind and crashed pretty badly. So you need to know the limits of wind speed your quadcopter can handle and don’t risk it flying in powerful wind.

Practice Hovering

Hovering is actually harder than it seems, especially when you are flying FPV through a monitor or FPV goggle. Mastering hovering does not only allow you to have better control over your aircraft but also allows you to shoot better aerial videos and pictures.

Cut Throttle

When you are flying forward fast, and you are about to crash into a tree, what would you do? If you can escape by turning left or right, a wise option would be turning off your throttle. By stopping throttle, you also stop the fast rotating propellers as well. This reduces the chance of breaking your props, motors and further damages to your quadcopter. Some nano quads come with prop guards which are also good features to consider.

5 aussie travel apps

Since our last post, that being our 12 month budget update – we have had a lot of people message and ask about how we keep track and what Apps we use so we have compiled our top 5.

👮 Fuel Map Australia
➖ Particularly since leaving the East Coast, this has been awesome! We can plan ahead. Diesel can be up to 40c cheaper just 20km’s down the road. The savings are better in our pocket! 👮

👮 Google Maps
➖ A fair few people asked who we made the map through.

👮 Gas Finder
➖ Because why pay more then you have to? Generally we just use the Swap N Go at Bunnings for $19.95. But if that’s not available…. this app comes in handy. We were once stung $60 for a bottle…. ummmm…. never again!

👮 WikiCamps
➖ The best $8.99 we’ve spent for the trip and lots of people will already know about it…. but if you don’t, go buy it! It shows free camps, low paid camps, caravan parks, dump points, drinking water taps, points of interest etc within the area. Choose a filter and you get the whole rundown with prices, reviews and recent photos – not just the ‘professional’ ones that parks get done up. Nothing worse then turning up and it looks nothing like their website!! 🗻

👮 Pocket Expense
➖ This is what we use to keep track of our money. You can make your own categories so…. ‘Groceries’, ‘Diesel’, ‘Accommodation’ etc. and then we just log it in as we buy things. So no, I don’t spend hours going through our bank statements to work out how much we’ve spent! ☺️

Free Camp Versus Caravan Parks – what is better?

The majority of comments and feedback we get are positive but occasionally we get comments regarding free camping and “taking money away from Caravan Parks”

Caravan parks are no different from any other business- they offer a service and if people want that service they pay for it. Before our trip we spent our money to become self contained. This allows far greater flexibility where we stop for the night.

This is very important when travelling with young kids because when they have had enough travelling, they are very vocal letting us know! When we do pay for campsites such as national parks and farm stays we rarely use the amenities provided, but instead are paying for the location.

We also like to have more space around us than most caravan parks provide. We always try to leave a site cleaner than we found it and the last job before we hit the rd each day is an emu bob which our kids have turned into a competition.

Growing up in Tassie my dad used to take us camping ‘a lot’ and I dont remember ever having stayed in a caravan park. Even though our tent has wheels and all the amenities of a house l see no reason my kids shouldnt grow up with the same memories of sitting around a camp fire, roasting marshmallows or cooking damper, while looking up at the stars with not another person within cooee.

Everyone has their own journey and this is ours. Life is what you make it. We are able to travel our lap by keeping to a cheaper accommodation budget. It works for us 🙂


Understanding Solar Power

I see a lot of very basic questions in forums about 12v DC electronics and often see them replied to with some very complex answers.

12v DC electronics is actually a very precise science and it’s really quite easy to understand once armed with some basic information. There’s nothing stupid about not understanding it. Most of us go through life never having to think about it. It’s only when we’re thrust into (or maybe gently led) into the world of off grid living that we have to understand a few basic rules.

Please note: information provided here is also applicable to bricks and mortar dwellings. You do not need to be a licensed tradesperson to undertake 12v installations. If necessary, cabling for 12v DC systems can run freely through dwellings. Basic 12v DC systems can dramatically cut home electricity bills. It doesn’t matter how many thousands of dollars you are told emphatically that you must spend, by solar power contractors; you CAN cut out the middle operator and install very inexpensive systems yourself. 

This guide does not offer schematics as setups can differ greatly. Do not hesitate to contact me for further advice.

Renewable energy is vital to our future, but already it has become an industry rife with operators who provide misinformation for the purpose of profit. Much of that misinformation pertains to the validity of more basic systems. Electrons are electrons – it doesn’t matter how you convert them from photons, just as long as you benefit. 

Ohms Law Basics – It’s really simple. Honestly!

The main things we need to concern ourselves with are:
1. Power – Measured in Watts and abbreviated as P. This is the amount of work that an appliance or light globe does.

2. Current – Measured in Amps and abbreviated as I. This is the amount of electricity that’s drawn from your battery.
3. Voltage – Measured in volts (surprise, surprise) and abbreviated as E. This is the potential difference between two points, more simply described as pressure, like the water flow in a hose.

P and I are very variable for the purpose of calculations. V doesn’t vary much in a DC circuit. There are variations based on a batteries charge or depth of discharge (DoD), but it’s reasonably negligible, so we use 12v as the basis for our calculations. There is an exception to this rule that I personally apply when doing  calculations involving inverters, but that will be explained in due course.Some caravan RVs use 24v systems. They aren’t as common as they are in large commercial vehicles, but the same rules apply, substituting 12 with 24.

The most important equation that we can remember is:

E / V = I

In plain English: Power in Watts, divided by voltage in volts, equals Current in amps.

It’s important to be aware of how much current is being drawn, as that tells you how much you have left in your battery.

Example: 10 watt LED globe / 12v DC supply = 0.833 Amp current

Power is important for the purpose of calculating current. It’s also important to know how much power  devices consume, if you are using an inverter or generator. If the appliance consumes more power than is provided by a source of electricity from an inverter or generator, they just won’t work.

If you have a hair drier that produces 1,300 Watts, plugged in via a 1 KVA (1,000 Watt) generator, the generator will cut out. The same goes for inverters. 

Appliances that heat or cool via compression (air conditioners) consume a lot of power. That’s why items such as electric heaters, hair driers, electric kettles etc, are very impractical in terms of most small off grid 12v DC power set ups. 

Heating appliances are too powerful for small, practical inverters and generators, whilst large inverters / generators draw far too much current to be practical . In the case of inverters, they run batteries down quickly. In the case of larger generators, their power capacity is inversely proportional to their size, weight, noise level, fuel consumption and cost. 


Types of batteries have been discussed in a previous post: The Best Things In Life Are Free Camps.
The vast majority of house batteries are AGM (absorbed glass mat) deep cycle batteries, so I’m basing information on AGM batteries. 
Deep cycle batteries are designed to deliver a steady current over a period of time and discharge / recharge slowly. These differ from cranking (car batteries) that are designed to deliver a large current in a short burst in order to start a car. They are recharged quickly by means of the car’s alternator.
Lithium batteries are becoming increasingly popular for many reasons. The downside is the cost. They’re one of my many pet hates for political reasons. More later. 
For the purpose of deep cycle house batteries, capacity measurements are generally rated in “Amp hours (Ah).” 
This is the measurement of how much a battery holds, based on how many hours it can supply a continuous current of 1 amp for. 
If a 100Ah battery is under a load of 1 Amp, technically it will supply power for 100 hours before it is totally discharged. If the combined load of your lights and appliances is 10 Amps (that’s very high by the way), a 100 Ah battery will fully discharge in 10 hours.
Now here’s the catch. It’s not a very complex catch, but it brings a lot of people undone!
If you gloss over everything else read this carefully:
Firstly, don’t think too much about the “hour” part in Amp hours. The time is fairly irrelevant to the battery itself, it’s more relevant to how long you run an appliance, or in techy talk; put a load on that battery.
Think of the battery as a fuel tank. Think of Amp hours as litres of fuel. A reasonable analogy is one that applies to older diesel engines. Before self bleeding diesel engines existed, running out of fuel could cost you dearly. An empty fuel tank would mean having the engine professionally bled!!!!
A similar principle applies to AGM batteries. If you let them run down to empty, it’s going to COST YOU. Every time an AGM battery falls below 50% capacity, think of it as an empty tank. By emptying it that much,  the batteries lifespan is reduced by a not insignificant amount. If you want your expensive AGM batteries to last (up to 7 years for some), treat them well and don’t discharge them below 50% DoD, because they’ll soon be DoA. 
The best way to meter your battery’s capacity easily is to read the voltage. Most “intelligent” chargers or solar regulators display the battery voltage. There are also some very inexpensive meters, widely available.
50% capacity for an AGM battery or bank of batteries is around 12.2v. Different battery manufacturers publish charts showing 50% DoD anywhere between 12.05v and 12.3v. I use 12.2v as a general guide, bearing in mind that a battery that is under load will show a lower voltage with the DoD at 50%. If a battery shows 12v first thing in the morning with a load on it, you’re fairly guaranteed that you haven’t done any serious damage to it. I tend to aim for a higher figure to be on the safe side. If my battery bank shows 12.1v first thing in the morning, under load, prior to the sun hitting the solar panels, I’m happy.  
The basic rule is to work out your daily consumption in Amp hours and at least double that figure in terms of battery capacity in Amp hours. If you are likely to consume 100 Amp hours per day, you will need at least a 200Ah battery bank, but that’s kind of pushing it really; leaving no latitude. In my set up, we consume around 40 Amp hours per day. Our battery bank is 240Ah. That’s more like the figure you should be working towards. It leaves you with a lot of capacity up your sleeve in case of low charging rates, such as solar charging during periods of low sunshine. 



There are three widely used methods of charging house batteries:
Solar panles
240v mains charger.
Tow vehicle alternator.
Solar Charging
I’ve covered solar charging in a couple of previous posts, so rather than bore everyone with the same information again. I’ll summarise the basics.
Solar panels are connected to a solar regulator, which regulates the charging of your batteries. It’s essentially a battery charger that’s powered from the sun. A group of panels connected to a single regulator is called an array.

Many forums advocate the use of MPPT solar chargers, claiming that you get more charge from less sun. I won’t get into the technical nuances of solar regulators, but will say that an MPPT regulator is far more effective if your array of panels exceeds 600w. A good quality PWM charger will suffice for smaller arrays and cost you much less money than a quality MPPT unit. I’m not saying that MPPT regulators don’t employ better technology, they certainly do. I just personally feel with smaller arrays, the cost can far outweigh the benefits. In some instances, high quality PWM regulators such as those made by Victron, are better than lower end MPPT regulators. On the other hand, low end PWM regulators are often bloody useless. 

The charge that a panel generates is generally measured in Watts. 

A 100 Watt solar panel produces approximately 6 Amps of current in full sun. That means that 6 Amp hours of charge would be absorbed by a battery in one hour of full sun, with the sun closest to the earth’s surface ie at midday. Given the movement of the sun from east to west from sunrise to sunset, a 100 Watt panel will produce around 30 Amp hours of charge on a cloudless sunny day. 

If you have a 100 Ah battery, given that it’s not advisable to discharge a battery below 50% DoD, no more than 50 Amp hours.should be discharged in a day. To regain 50Ah per day,  you,  would need a 200 watt array. 

It’s a commonly held belief that your array should be double in Watts,  what your battery bank is rated  in Amp hours.

100 Ah battery bank – 200 Watt array
200 Ah battery bank – 200 Watt array

It’s far from a firm and fast rule. Array size is also determined by daily consumption.  
I have a 240 Ah battery bank and a 460 Watt array. According to the above guide, I would have a 280 Watt array. However, I don’t draw anywhere near as many Amps from my battery in one day as is generated by my array. My array produces an average of 85 Amp hours in a day in good weather. I draw around 50 Amp hours from the battery bank, per day on average.
My setup is fine for sunny weather. One might even suggest a smaller array.  I could probably do with adding another 100 to 150 Watts to my array to compensate for cloudy weather.

However, I have a generator for topping up the batteries when necessary. Array size is to some extent, a case of “horses for courses.” An array can certainly be too small in electronic terms, but not too big. On the other hand, it can be too big in terms of size weight and cost. It’s about finding a balance.


A 240v powered intelligent charger is, in my opinion, an essential part of any 12v set up. Regardless of how effective your solar charging is, there’s always going to be a need to plug into a 240v supply and put the battery bank through a very reliable, continuous charge cycle that doesn’t depend on available sunshine. This might be when the sun just isn’t providing and charging takes place by means of a generator. It might be simply when you’re on grid and plugged into a 240v supply, which is a great opportunity to give your batteries a good solid charge.

An intelligent multi-stage chargerter and an old  (now deceased) dicky inverter

Many intelligent chargers will analyse your battery and if necessary, put it through a regeneration cycle, which has the potential to repair a battery that has been damaged to some extent, by being over discharged or being discharged too quickly.

Most intelligent chargers allow selection of the charge rates up to 50 Amps. The charge rate can be explained as simplistically as the amount of Amp hours (litres of fuel) that are put back into the battery (fuel tank) in 1 hour. It isn’t quite so simple due to the nature of multi stage charging. To explain further: One would expect that a 25 Amp charger would charge a 100Ah battery from 50% DoD in in 2 hours. in realty it will charge the battery to around 75% full in around an hour. 25 Amp hours added to an existing  50 Amp hours, taking it up to a 75 Amp hours  or 75% of capacity. At approximately 75% full, the charger will automatically switch stages from “bulk” to “absorb” charge. The charging current is reduced in order to prevent the battery from over heating and over charging. As a result of the reduced current, absorb charging can take considerably longer than bulk charging; often around 3 hours to charge the last 75% of a 100 Ah battery.


Charging From A Vehicle

Many Australians say, there’s no such thing as a free lunch. I hope it’s not entirely true, because I’ve had hundreds and I don’t want to get a surprise bill, but the general gist of the euphemism is true.

If you’re going to gain from something somewhere, you’ll pay elsewhere. Charging a house battery from a vehicle is a bit like that. A vehicle’s alternator is a readily available source of a charging voltage, but a load on an alternator is inversely proportional to fuel consumption by the engine that drives the alternator. It’s not a huge consideration, but it is one to be aware of and should not be over looked.

From a personal perspective, we don’t charge our caravan house battery from the car’s alternator. We have a significant solar array on the roof of the caravan and that generally suffices as far as our charging needs go. We also have a second deep cycle battery system in the car that powers our Engel Freezer. That is charged from the alternator via a simple battery isolator.  The isolator ensures that the Auxiliary battery doesn’t charge if the car battery is below a nominal voltage. That prevents draining the car starting battery. It also ensures that charging ceases when the Aux battery reaches a certain voltage, thus preventing over charging. Battery isolators are a compromise in that they don’t offer multi stage charging as outlined above. They essentially cut off charging prior to the battery reaching full charge, where a multi stage charger drops the charging current in absorb charge mode, then continues to maintain the charge in float mode.

Multi stage charging is easily achievable via a vehicle’s alternator with a DC to DC charger. This type of device is an “intelligent” multi stage charger that’s powered by a 12v DC supply from the vehicle as opposed to a 240v mains supply. They are usually connected between the vehicle and a caravan or trailer via a significant cable of sufficient diameter and Anderson plugs. They usually charge at a rate of around 15 Amps, some up to 25 Amps.

Decent DC to DC chargers are reasonably expensive. They’re potentially an extravagance unless you spend a lot of time towing as opposed to staying in one place for long periods. However, the up side is that a lot of the better models also double up as a solar regulator, which makes them quite cost effective. In saying that, even the good ones aren’t necessarily the best solar regulators. 

Given that I prefer to hang around in places for a while and travel as infrequently as possible, it’s not worth me spending a lot of money on a DC to DC charger. A simple battery isolator serves my purposes well, given that we rarely travel for more than 4 hours in a day. This means that my battery is essentially bulk charged on the road, then plugged into a separate solar regulator for the later stages of charging. 



Starting an online thread relating to inverters, can be to open a can of worms, which makes about as much sense as the non existence of a free lunch , but you know what I mean.
There are two main misconceptions about inverters: 1) That if you have a 600W inverter, it will produce 600 Watts of power, whenever it is switched on. 2) That they are magic! – Some people honestly believe that by plugging in a powerful inverter, they are magically transforming their 12v DC supply into a mains supply, providing and endless source of 240v AC electricity.
Debunking number 1 – Inverters only produce whatever power is required for whatever is plugged into it. Let’s say you have a 600W inverter and you plug a 300W stick blender into it. The inverter will consume 300W. Let’s say the stick blender operates for 3 minutes and use our important equation from earlier to debunk number 2.
P – 300W (Blender) /  V – 12v (battery supply) = I – 25 Amps
In one hour of continuous use the stick blender will draw 25 Amps from the battery.
This is where we get a little tricky. Inverters operate with an inefficiency of around 15 to 20%, that means. When calculating how much current is drawn using an appliance via an inverter, we can allow for it’s inefficiency by substituting 12v (V) in the equation with 10. There for V = 10.
So the equation would be 300W / 10 (V) = 30 Using a 12v DC supply via an inverter to power a 300W blender, it draws 30 Amps.
To calculate how much it draws in 3 minutes, is pretty simple 30 Amp hours / 60 (minutes) = 0.5 Amp hours in 1 minute x 3 (minutes) = 1.5 Amp hours
I (current) / t (60 minutes) = I per minute x t (minutes of use) = Current Drawn
In summary, using a 300W stick blender for a few minutes, doesn’t draw much from the battery. About 1.5 Amp hours. 
Inverters can be used in a couple of ways. I’ve taken a line out of the 240v outlet on the front of our inverter and wired that up, so that it can be switched into the caravan’s main 240v circuit. This allows us to use our power points and 240v lighting, which has all been upgraded to LED globes. It’s also possible to keep the invertor in a convenient location and plug appliances into its front panel as required. 
When an invertor is left on without actually providing power, it is in a state known as “idling.” Idling generally draws less than 1 Amp, however 1 amp over 24 hours is still 24 Amp hours. Good inverters run in standby mode, which means they idle for less time and power up as required.
I personally believe in buying a quality inverter, but not going over the top. Some can get into the thousands, quite unnecessarily. There really isn’t any point in buying a big inverter to run powerful appliances. They put a huge drain on battery banks and need to be hooked up with seriously heavy gauge cabling and breakers, in order to prevent the risk of fire. If you really need powerful appliances when you’re off grid, either get a generator or re-think your priorities. Do you really need the microwave that badly?
To buy a good quality (and I mean safe), high powered inverter, you’re looking at $1,500 plus. I had a cheap Chinese on that cost 80 bucks, for years. I wanted it to die so that I could justify buying a good one. I couldn’t kill the bloody thing, when it did eventually bite the dust, it took a few hundred bucks worth of appliances with it.
A very good 400 to 600W inverter can be purchased for around $300. Carry on reading to discover why it’s not worth having anything much bigger. There are 2 types of inverter in terms of how their supply voltage “cycles.” A pure sine wave invertor is the only type I recommend. It provides 240v supply that’s probably more stable than most mains supplies. A lot of technology, especially laptops require a pure sine wave inverter to operate. A “modified sine wave” inverter is good for lights and electric motors, but won’t run and could even damage complex technology. It’s not worth buying anything other than a pure sine wave model. 
Quality Victron inverter
NOW KETTLES!!!! (and other unnecessary things that heat)
One of the most commonly asked questions is “what size inverter do I need to boil a kettle?”
Let’s look at an average kettle as having a Wattage of 1,800W
Let’s look at the average boiling time to make a cuppa as 3 minutes.
We’ll assume that the person who possesses a fear of gas stoves, also possesses an inverter big enough to boil an average kettle. The inverter size is irrelevant. All that is relevant is that it can handle 1,800W.
So, strap yourself in for some simple maths with significant results!
1,800W / 10 (V) = 180 Amps – Boiling a kettle continuously would not only take a 100 Ah battery lower than it’s recommended DoD (Depth of Discharge 50%), it would actually flatten it in less than one hour!!!
What’s that I hear you say? “It’s only going to boil for 3 minutes!”
OK then, now that we have a figure of 180 Amps let’s look at the equation that calculates how much current is drawn in a given period.
180 (I) / t (60) = 3 Amp hours (I per minute)
3 x 3 (t – minutes of use) = 9 Amp hours
9 Amp hours drawn from the battery to make 1 cuppa. If you have a 100 Ah battery, 5 cups of tea in a day would discharge the battery to a suitable DoD. 2 cups a day would constitute over a quarter of available power.
There’s a very easy answer; use a gas burner and a stove top kettle. Appliances that heat, simply draw too much current.


There’s is another option for running more powerful appliances, which is Lithium batteries. Lithium batteries are considerably lighter than AGM batteries, therefore you can have large banks without having a huge effect on the caravans weight. A 100 Ah AGM weighs about 30kg whereas a 100Ah lithium battery weighs about 10kg. The other huge advantage of Lithium batteries is that they can be discharged to over 80% DoD, therefor they’re considerably more efficient than AGM batteries.
Now the bad shit! Personally I don’t like the concept of lithium batteries being touted as the be all and end all of renewable energy. Lithium is a finite resource. A reasonably valuable finite resource. Currently $9,400 per metric Tonne. It has doubled in 4 years and isn’t going to get any cheaper. It’s more water intensive than lead in terms of extraction and unlike lead which is currently $2,300 per tonne, is economically impractical to recycle. 
Guess which country has the world’s largest Lithium deposits. Yes, it’s us again. We aren’t the biggest producer, Yet, but explorations have identified huge deposits. So, guess who’s backyard is going to be fucked up most by the increase of lithium battery use? Yes ours. 
So, think about those CMCA members in their big busses who feel entitled to exclusive rights to free camps because they are environmental saints for having fitted grey water tanks. Not only are they fucking the environment with their carbon emissions, a lot of them are helping the destruction with their bloody great lithium battery banks. 
I must add, I don’t have a personal problem with them, as long as they don’t cast environmentally based dispersions on people who pour a little bit of water on a tree. It’s hypocrisy of the highest order, based purely on financial elitism. It’s NOT environmentalism. They’re not fooling anyone. 
I have been accused of being “anti-big rig.” I suppose I am, but that doesn’t mean that I don’t like the people who own them. I generally get on with people. I’m also anti over investment in the housing market, yet many of my close friends have done it. 
My problem with “big rigs” is that they defeat the principal purposes and purpose principles of downscaling. Especially given that many owners don’t even live in them permanently. For me and many others, downscaling is political. It’s a means of survival. I just feel that in many cases “big rigs” display an over reliance on wealth. I don’t have a major issue with unnecessary wealth. I have an issue with wealthy people who regard those who struggle, as enemies of the state. The biggest problem in this country is insanely wealthy people who don’t pay taxes. Now, talking about Gina; back to mining lithium. 
It’s very interesting that Tesla one of the world’s biggest producers of Lithium batteries, is sneaking it’s way under the bed covers of both state and federal governments. Call me a cynic, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the sudden benevolence displayed by Elon Musk and Tesla towards Australia, might just have something to do with them getting their filthy mitts on our resources. 
We’ve seen the disastrous results of our national grid being sold off to private investors around the country. That’s only a small taste of the public being fucked over, in comparison to what’s going to happen if Tesla achieve world domination.
OK, there’s my political rant over. Well nearly. I have to add that it’s a very sad indictment on Western capitalism, when something as positive for our future as renewable energy, is allowed to be turned into a monster by government / corporate cronyism!
So, that’s the political bad shit about Lithium. Most people reading this probably won’t give a shit about that, so I’d better also point out that whilst an 100Ah AGM battery can cost as little as $200, a 100Ah Lithium battery will set you back over $1,000!!!! The charging equipment for Lithium batteries is also considerably more expensive than for AGM batteries. Also, if you’re going to have a huge battery bank, you’re going to need a hell of a big solar array and somewhere to put it. My personal advice to anyone, be they in a home, caravan or motorhome, is scale back your usage and make do with as small a system as you can.
Not all lithium stops me from being mad! Lithium batteries make me MAD!!!

Fuses, Breakers and Cable Ratings

Everything in a 12v system needs to have a fuse or breaker in line. A fuse contains a wire that burns out and breaks when a current greater than is required to supply an appliance passes through it. It breaks the circuit rendering it safe. Once the problem has been isolated the fuse can be replaced with a new one.
Breakers perform the same task as fuses, only they are somewhat more complex in that they are a switch mechanism that is activated, breaking the circuit when a current greater than it’s nominated value is detected. 
The most common reason for a fuse or breaker being activated is a short circuit. A short circuit occurs when there’s some sort of connection between the positive and negative sides of a DC circuit. This can result from wires or terminations making contact with each other, or contact being made through conductive material that is making common contact with each side of the same circuit. 
Whilst 12v DC circuits don’t carry the same risk of electrocution that 240v DC does, a 12v short circuit can easily result in a fire with catastrophic results. In my opinion, 12v DC installations can be more dangerous than 240v installations. You don’t have to be qualified to do the work. Terminations are not required to be of the same high safety standard as 240v AC and people fear 12v DC far less than 240v AC, due to the significantly lower risk of electrocution. As already stated, the risk of fire is indeed great, so BE CAREFUL. Read as much as you can and don’t attempt any installation until you are absolutely certain that you can do it safely and avoid short circuits. It’s probably a good idea to get your first few installations safety checked by an auto electrician. It’s a small price to pay for safety.
Personally I use breakers instead of fuses on everything. It’s easier to re-set than replace and they allow more convenient isolation of a problem. If a breaker trips after you have “fixed” a problem, you know you haven’t fixed the problem. The same applies to a fuse, however every time a fuse breaks, it has to be thrown away and replaced with a new one. You can go through a lot of fuses while isolating a problem.
I have also seen examples of blade fuses burning out but actually fusing open circuit as a result of the metal melting. This could result in an ongoing  short circuit, which could in turn result in a fire. 
I tend to use “blade breakers”, which look like a typical “blade fuse” that you fins in a car’s fuse box, only they’re black with a little red re-settable button in the top. They don’t seem to be very popular. I think there’s a common misconception that due to their less than imposing size, they’re somehow less reliable than seemingly more solidly built breakers. I’ve been using them in my caravan fuse box for nearly four years. They are extremely reliable. I’ve never had one fail. They don’t trip unnecessarily and I’ve tested their effectiveness on a regular basis. They’re excellent. They cost considerably less than seemingly more substantial breakers and take up considerably less space. They fit into a typical automotive fuse box.
Fuses and breakers are rated in amps. gauging a fuse rating isn’t rocket science. I work out the sum on the maximum current that can be drawn on a particular circuit and round off the fuse value to the next highest value. For instance, if the sum of all of your 12v fans in use at the same time is 4 Amps, the next highest value is a 5 Amp fuse or breaker. This allows for some latitude. They won’t trip the circuit if the current drawn surges slightly and goes above the nominal total current value a little bit, but if a short circuit occurs the fuse or breaker will trip safely. If the fuse or breaker rating is too high for the circuit, problems can occur without it tripping. This can result in damage to equipment.
The same principle applies to cable diameter, which in turn corresponds to current rating. However, if the current in a cable is too high for what it’s diameter allows for, it obviously won’t trip. Instead it will overheat with great potential to start a fire. Wire diameter which corresponds to current rating, should match fuse or breaker values. 
This post is designed as a brief guide. I seriously suggest reading considerably more on breakers, fuses, cable rating, schematics, terminations and joiners, prior to undertaking any installation work. 
Blade fuse box with blade breakers inserted

The 3-Way Fridge Trap

That sounds like some kind of bizarre criminal activity by a psychotic serial killer, but it’s not. At least not yet anyway. 
3-way fridges run on gas, 240v electricity and 12v electricity. 
I keep reading about people with the same problem; “my 3-way fridge is draining my battery quickly.”
This is very simple. This style of fridge runs by means of heat exchange, unlike others that run by means of a compressor. Compressor fridges, such as Engels and Waecos for instance, are very energy efficient. Heat exchanger fridges are very energy inefficient. Some  can draw up to 25 Amps, whilst a similar size compressor fridge will draw between 1.5 and 3 Amps.
3-way fridges are designed specifically to run on LPG when off grid and 240v AC when available. The 12v option is for the specific purpose of powering the fridge whilst the vehicle is moving, with a direct connection to the alternator. 
We have a 2-way fridge. We tend to use our freezer to pre-freeze ice packs prior to a long journey. We pack the fridge up with them for the first part of the journey, leaving the fridge turned off. We then connect the fridge to 240v via the invertor for the second half. Our fridge is more efficient than some and we are continuously charging the battery bank via solar panels on the roof as we travel. We usually end up with a reasonably full battery and cold beers when we arrive at our destination.
If you have a 3-way fridge, it’s meant to be powered by LPG gas when you’re off grid. Running it from a 12v battery will drain the battery very quickly. Don’t do it, or if you do, don’t whinge on the internet because you’ve been told.
Our kitchen with our 42 year old Electrolux 2-way fridge

Points to Remember

  •  Batteries and battery banks are measured in Amp hours
  • Amp hours are like litres in a fuel tan
  • P (Power) / V (Voltage) = I (Current) – That’s how to calculate how much “fuel” you’re using
  • A deep cycle battery is designed to deliver a low currently continuously over a long period of time, whilst a car / cranking battery is designed to deliver a high current in a short burst to start a motor.
  • You’re battery or bank should never fall below half full (50% DoD)
  • Voltage indicates how full a battery is – 12.2v is about half full.
  • A group of solar panels is called an array. Measured in Watts.
  • In full sun, 6 Amps is generated by every 100 Watts in an array.
  • Solar arrays are connected to solar regulators. Good solar regulators are intelligent multi stage chargers. They ensure a full charge and prevent over charging.
  • As a suggestion, an array should total in Watts, twice the size of a battery bank in amp hours. For example – 200W battery bank requires a 400W array. Not a hard and fast rule. 6
  • A good 240v intelligent charger is important for putting your batteries through a good continuous charge cycle when mains or generator power is available. They are also a very good means of regenerating batteries that have been over discharged.
  • Charging from an alternator / vehicle is very convenient if you travel regularly. Always bear in mind that gained energy is paid for elsewhere. Charging from a vehicle will increase fuel consumption.
  • DC to DC chargers provide multi stage charging from a vehicle. They are reasonably expensive and might be unnecessary for people who don’t move on from a location regularly.
  • Battery isolators can be used in place of DC to DC chargers. They are very inexpensive, but only provide a bulk charge. They will never completely charge a battery because a solenoid cuts switches charging out at a nominal voltage in order to prevent over charging.
  • Battery isolators also prevent a car / cranking battery from being discharged when a house / aux battery reaches a nominal DoD.
  • A house or aux battery can be bulk charged by a vehicle via a battery isolator whilst driving and then switched over to solar charging for final stage charging with a reduced current.
  •  Inverters transform 12v DC from a battery into 240v AC for powering domestic appliances.
  • When an invertor is left on but no appliances are being used, the invertor is “idling.” It does not use run at it’s rated power (wattage) when on but not powering an appliance. Idling draws a very small current.
  • Invertors are not magic. They are only as capable as your battery bank. Large invertors are often a waste of money. They can provide a 240v supply to appliances of a high wattage, but they’ll suck batteries dry in a hurry.
  • Lithium batteries are expensive, evil and the core of world domination by a US power giant. (Shit that’s going to cause some arguments – good job I enjoy being insulted by people who I’ve insulted because they just spent a fuck load of money on lithium batteries) Fuses, breakers and correct cable ratings can save your equipment or possibly your life by preventing a fire. They’re designed to ensure that a circuit does not carry a greater current than it’s supposed to.
  • Fridges that run on LPG gas are supposed to run off LPG gas when a 240v AC supply is not available. If you run one from a 12v DC battery, you will discharge it very quickly, so don’t do it! If you do, don’t whinge about it online, because now you know not to and it’s your own fault if someone calls you a goose. 
The Pyke Clan in a Caravan on Campersway

How much does it cost to go around Australia

How much does it cost to go around Australia

Ever wondered how much does it cost to go around Australia? The Pyke Clan in a Van have narrowed down the exact amount of money you need to take a year off and travel our beautiful country.

To find more unique campsites you can search here


We’ve spent $35,919.20 in total. 
 Includes gas bottles, rego, phone bills, insurances etc.
= $690.75 per week

The total grocery bill is $7,205.77 
= $138.57 per week

We’ve visited 5 states so far. 
 Tom’s Favourite State – Tasmania
 Mikaela’s Favourite State- Northern Territory

Travelled 35,970 km’s.

Most we’ve paid for diesel – $2.50/L

Total fuel bill is $6,833.13
= $131.40 per week

We’ve had one baby 
 Welcome to the Clan Milla

Visited 124 playgrounds. 

Collected 61 stubby holders. 

We’ve gone through 8 pairs of thongs.
 (3) Kane , Lucas
 (2) Tom
 (0) Mikaela, Milla

Join our Facebook group. The Caravan, Camping and Glamping Group!

We’ve had 1 flat tyre. 

Car servicing costs – $1368

We’ve had our towing mirrors and our Caravan stone guard stolen. 

We’ve replaced one Caravan door handle, one TV antenna handle, one 12V TV, two solar panels, one toilet pump, one cracked water pipe and our awning. 

Caravan costs – $3,560

We’ve stayed at 206 free camps. 
 Favourite free camp – Cosy Corner North in Binalong Bay, Tasmania 

We’ve stayed in 159 Caravan Parks. 
 Favourite Caravan Park – BIG4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort

Total accommodation bill is $5,602.35
=$107.73 per week

Most-played driving song – Ride With Me by Nelly (boys know it as “the money song”)

Total activities bill is $2,124.25
 Tom’s Highlights – Wineglass BayThe Daintree Rainforest
 Mikaela’s Highlights – West MacDonnell RangesGreat Barrier Reef Marine ParkUluru
 Kane’s Highlights – Gold Coast Theme Parks, all the water slides
 Lucas’ Highlights – Australia Zoo, all the playgrounds

Favourite Pub – Daly Waters Historic Pub

Total alcohol bill is $1602.43

A few essentials that make caravanning a lot easier –
 Our washing machine (saves us so much money!)
 12V fans (makes free camping a lot more comfortable!)
 Our Waeco (thank goodness for extra freezer space and cold beer) 

Families we have met along the way
 Mountain Sun Sea, The Blizzards’ Big Lap, Rogers Great Escape, Sunset Seekers, Aussie Wanderlust (plus a few more who don’t have FB pages) 

We’ve seen more then what we ever thought was possible. Australia truly is an amazingly diverse, beautiful country. 

There’s been campfires, red dirt, blue skies, waterfalls, sunsets and sand in our toes.

We’ve watched as our kids flourish becoming independent, knowledgeable, adventurous little boys. 

Our marriage has gone from strength to strength. 

We’ve shared a drink and a laugh with so many new friends. 


And there’s still so much left to see and do —No regrets

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